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In this post, I will highlight some important points on safe driving style, good road manners and maintenance of cars, based on my personal experience. While this must be common knowledge, I don’t see many drivers following them in practice. Safety on the road should be of prime concern to a good driver. Being a responsible driver also means respecting other drivers and pedestrians on the road. A good driver must not abuse the car and maintain it well.

Disclaimer: This article assumes that the reader is an experienced driver. Inexperienced drivers may follow my advice at their own risk. This article is meant for left-hand drive cars.

Preparation

Driving, even if it is for a short distance, should not be taken casually. You must not drive if you are tired or sick. You should be well rested. Drinking and driving is an absolute no-no. I had the good fortune to work under the guidance of an eminent eye surgeon who avoids alcohol in the evening if he has surgeries scheduled in the next morning.

Wear appropriate footwear when you are driving. Slippers must be avoided as they may come off your feet and hamper your braking. If you are wearing a sandal, it should be buckled.

Before getting inside the car, take your sweet time to make sure everything is in order.

• Take a quick walk around the car. Make sure no pet is sleeping underneath.
• Inspect the tyres.
• Take out any twigs or leaves from the wipers.
• Check if the tailgate, bonnet and passenger doors are fully shut.
• Clean the windshield, windscreen of the rear and side windows, all the mirrors. A dusty windscreen not only reduces visibility, it creates glare at night when lights from oncoming vehicle falls on it.
• Check if you have everything you need e.g. phone. Remove anything that you don’t need because unnecessary cargo only adds to the dead weight of the car and increases fuel consumption.

The Kolkata traffic police requires you to carry original copies of:

• driving license – this should be in your wallet and not in the car
• pollution certificate

And attested xerox copies of:

• road tax invoice
• smart card
• insurance

I also keep a xerox of the driving license in the car.

Once inside the car, take your time to adjust the seat. Modern cars have all kinds of adjustments for seat height, lumbar support, steering tilt, headrest and so on. An ergonomic sitting position is important as it will keep backache and fatigue at bay.  To sit comfortably, I get the wallet out of my back pocket. Fasten the seat-belt by default. Ask your other passengers, even those in the rear bench, to do the same. Seat-belts have saved many lives. Don’t take them lightly.

Before setting off, it is also important to have a clear idea of the route. Before going to a new place, I check the route on Google maps and ask friends about parking zones and alternative routes. If going on a totally new road, I try to spot a well driven car and follow it. The leading car becomes a good guide to potholes and intersections ahead.

Adjust the mirrors

The IRVM should be so adjusted that you can view the entire rear windscreen, simply by moving your eyes, and not your head. This is important because you don’t want to lose sight of the road while stealing a glance at the IRVM.

Some ignorant Indian chauffeurs may tell you otherwise, but you must drive with both ORVMs open. I adjust them to see the car in the inner third of the mirror and the road in the outer two-third. For vertical adjustment, you should be able to see the rear door handle in the lowest point of the mirror. This is the best way to adjust the ORVMs in the city according to my experience. On the expressway, I widen the ORVM angle at the cost of seeing a bit less of my own car in the mirrors.

Warm up

Modern cars don’t need idling to warm up the engine. Idling can actually do more harm to your engine. However, according to Jalopnik, if this is a freezing winter morning, say in the Darjeeling mountains, then it is a good idea to idle your engine for 3 minutes before you start off. For all other climate conditions, the engine is best warmed by driving at low RPMs for a few kilometres. High end cars can show the engine temperature; in other cars, one can assess the engine temperature by looking at the RPM at idle.

Music

The unruly city traffic can be stressful. A little music can be therapeutic. I usually listen to soothing music to calm me down when driving inside the city. On the highways during the night, I switch to fast paced (but not loud) music which helps me stay alert. Excessively loud music can lead to driver fatigue. Note: I completely turn the music off when I’m driving through narrow roads in the congested parts of the city.

Air Conditioning

I always drive with the AC turned on, which is not exactly an environment-friendly thing to do, but it reduces driver fatigue by cutting out the air and sound pollution. Remember though, when you are driving at > 55 kmph, it is recommended to roll up the windows and switch the AC on anyway. This reduces wind drag, improves the aerodynamic efficiency of the car and returns an overall improved fuel economy.

Don’t turn the AC on immediately on start-off. Drive a few hundred metres with the windows open, let the car ventilate well, after which you can roll up the windows and turn the AC on. This will get rid of the build up of harmful gases inside the car evaporated from interior plastic.

Set the AC controls at a low setting at first and gradually increase its speed. In case you have an automatic air conditioning system, this adjustment will be automatic. It goes without saying, you should select recirculation mode always. Every hour or so, briefly change it to fresh air mode or turn down the windows to let in some fresh oxygen.

When you suddenly switch the engine off, the AC unit goes into a state of shock. Turn the AC off a short distance before reaching your destination but keep working the blower fan at a moderate to high speed. The fan will dry out the AC and prevent bacterial growth.

Get the air conditioner serviced annually. At that time, also get the cabin air filter cleaned or replaced. This cabin filter, which filters outside air entering the AC, is an oft-neglected item and some car manufacturers omit this as a cost-cutting measure. If the cabin filter is not a standard factory fitment, do install it during your car’s first service.

Anticipation and Smooth Driving

Accelerating aggressively consumes a lot of fuel but doesn’t reduce transit time significantly. Also, the more hard braking done, more is the loss of built-up kinetic energy. On the other hand, it takes a lot less energy to maintain a more or less constant speed. When starting, I accelerate very gently and once I build up enough momentum, I maintain a constant speed, depending on the traffic and road condition, with a light foot on the gas pedal. I try to anticipate the road ahead as much as possible and avoid unnecessary fluctuations in speed. If your car has cruising ability, use it on the highway to maintain a constant speed.

Once I decide to stop ahead, I don’t waste the momentum by braking, instead I release the gas pedal a good distance before and let the frictional forces slow down the car. For example, before a traffic stop which I can see from a distance turning red, I simply take my foot off the gas pedal and let the car come to a stop naturally – a brief brake input is advisable here as it will turn on the brake lights alerting the cars behind.

Three second rule

Even in stop-and-go traffic, I always maintain a safe distance from the car ahead. A safe distance from the car ahead gives me adequate response time, allowing me to brake gradually. Ideally follow the “three second rule” to follow a car at a safe distance. This rule states that you should stay at least three seconds behind any vehicle that is directly in front of you. The rule uses time as a unit instead of distance and hence standardises a safe following distance at any driving speed; higher the speed, greater will be the safe distance.

360 degree scan

Make it a habit to steal quick glances at your mirrors from time to time so that you have a clear idea about your surrounding. When taking turns and at intersections, turn your head quickly and scan both sides. When you are changing lane on a highway at a sharp angle, it creates a huge blind spot – it is important to look over your shoulder instead of relying solely on the mirrors! Before reversing, scan the surroundings thoroughly. Watch out for kids and pets.

Once you have scanned the surroundings, it is okay to rely solely on the mirrors for parking manoeuvres but when reversing straight down the road, you should do the following:

• turn back on your left
• keep your left hand on the passenger seat headrest
• look through the rear windscreen over your left shoulder
• steer with your right hand.

Avoid distractions

Road traffic accident continues to be a major cause of death and morbidity in India. The roads out there are not safe at all. A moment’s carelessness is all that may decide between life and death. Avoid the phone by all means. Those who check their phones while driving need to pay a visit to the ER and see the RTA patients. The high number of accident victims turning up in ER is mind-boggling. They land up with gruesome injuries, often in an unconscious state.

The problem with talking over phone is hazardous because the person on the other end doesn’t have an idea about the scene on the road. In comparison, the co-passenger takes note of the road situation and paces their conversation accordingly, so as not to distract the driver. Talking over Bluetooth is acceptable but keep the calls short. Also, disable all notifications during driving. Nowadays, all phones are equipped with Android Auto or Apple Carplay.

Remember that a high music volume will only distract you and eventually tire you out. In congested parts of the city and narrow roads, turn off the music to hear better.

The sun visor is there for a reason. Don’t let the sun blind you. It is highly recommended to put on a pair of quality sunglasses during the day.

Road Manners

Good road manners can make the roads a lot safer. It also speaks volumes about your character. A good driver must be responsible, understanding and accommodating. Always respect right of way and yield. Overtake if you really have to. Overtaking a slow moving bus makes sense but if you overtake another car without a good reason and both of you reach the destination at the same time, it defeats the purpose. Lose the ego and let faster vehicles overtake you. If another car has already started overtaking you, you must not accelerate suddenly and block its path; be a gentleman and let it pass. Always give way to ambulances. Honk only when have to. Don’t use the horn as a tool to vent your frustration or to scare a cyclist or a pedestrian. Follow the traffic rules. Don’t jump the red lights. Respect the zebra crossings.

Lights

Don’t change direction without a warning. You will be putting yourself and others at risk. Turn the indicator light on at least 30 metres before turns or changing lanes. If you have to stop on the road, e.g. to drop off a passenger, use the hazard lights to warn others. Don’t forget to turn headlights on when it gets dark but always use low beams. You can briefly switch to high beams if it is necessary but remember to switch back to low beams to prevent inconvenience to other drivers. Flash headlight to communicate with others e.g. before overtaking or asking another car to yield way in a narrow road. The height of the headlight beams can be adjusted with the headlight leveller switch. It is especially handy when you have 3 of 4 people riding in the car. Because of the increased weight, the headlights tend to be directed upwards. Check the user manual for instructions on using the headlight leveller switch.

 Driving in the rains

Keep the AC on, in fresh-air mode, during the rains to prevent fogging of the windows. Don’t keep the cabin too warm or too cold. The idea is to maintain the right temperature balance between the windows and the outside air. HVAC systems in modern cars are equipped with a defogging mode which can be turned on in case the windscreen is fogged up. Rear screen defogger has become a standard feature, which clears fog by heating up little wires in the rear glass. Turn the AC off before entering a flooded area, in which case you can prevent fogging by rolling down the windows a bit.

Consider driving extra cautiously as visibility is poor. Cut down your driving speed as there is a significant increase in braking distance and risk of aquaplaning on wet roads. Use a combination of engine braking and regular braking as the former has certain advantages on slippery roads. Be considerate to pedestrians and cyclists on a rainy day, who may be difficult to spot in the rain. Give the bikes a margin of error who are not only exposed to the rain but are prone to skidding on slippery roads.

Use turn indicators, hazard light and horns liberally to alert other drivers. Turn on the headlights when it rains, even if it is day. Always use low beams. High beams hamper visibility further as the light is reflected back by the curtain of rain in front of you. Fog lamps can be used in the rain to improve visibility. If you can’t see anything, it is better to stop till the weather improves. Park the car in a safe and high spot, one that won’t be easily flooded.

Drive slowly on puddles so that you don’t splash water on pedestrians and bikers. It can also wreak havoc if the splashed water gets inside the engine. If possible, drive around a water collection. On an inundated road, you can gauge the depth of water by looking at the tyres of other cars. Don’t negotiate water level higher than the center of your wheel, unless stated otherwise in your car’s user manual. Take a different route.

If you really must drive through a flooded area, drive through water slowly in first gear and revv up the engine high. The generated fumes will keep the water out of the exhaust pipe. If the car stalls, don’t attempt to restart it. Restarting a car stalled in water can lead to engine hydrolock causing severe damage and significant repair costs. An automatic car in which you can’t maintain the first gear (and revv high) must not be driven through water. Luckily the automatic gearbox in my car has a manual mode too.

Parking

If you live in a city, you must master parallel parking. If you are parking in a tight space, turning the ORVM downwards, as against peering out of the window, to see the kerb, is a good habit. Park the car in a safe spot. Be considerate and don’t block another car in the parking area. Ask the parking attendant if you should keep the car in neutral. Make it a habit not to leave the car without your phone, wallet and keys. Even if you are getting down for a short time, keep valuables like laptops or briefcases hidden out of sight. Lock the car and take a walk around the car to check all the doors are fully shut and all glasses are fully rolled up. A small mistake on your part is all a thief may be waiting for!

Hill parking tip: If you park on a slope, the recommended norm is to turn the front wheels away from the kerb on an incline and towards the kerb on a decline. This ensures that your car won’t roll down in case the handbrake fails.

Care for the engine

Make sure to run-in your new car according to instructions in your car user manual. Most manufacturers recommend a running-in period of 1000 km. A properly run-in engine will give better performance and last the miles. I did a lot of driving in the empty Rajarhat highways to run-in my car in its initial days.

Respect the redline! The redline on the tachometer indicates the maximum performance of your engine. Don’t hit the redline for more than few seconds. Keeping the RPMs within 60-70% of the redline should be fine.

The engine oil is the life blood of the engine. It must be changed when it is time without delay, as instructed in the car’s manual, typically every 7500 – 10000 km. For cars doing frequent short trips and predominantly stop-and-go city driving, the engine oil should be changed earlier than recommended in the user manual – discuss it with your service mechanic. For such cars, it is a good idea to hit the highway in the weekend. A long drive will free up the engine and you will get better performance.

Beat the traffic

Stop-and-go driving in congested traffic takes its toll on the engine. As we follow a repetitive cycle of moving and stopping, there is incompletely burnt fuel which can form deposits in the engine and lead to premature ageing of the engine. The engine which has done 200,000 km on the highway is in a much better shape than that which has done 20,000 km stop-and-go driving in the city. I like to plan ahead to choose the route with minimum traffic and also the time of the day when the roads will be less congested. If needed, I start early in the morning to avoid the rush hour traffic.

Avoid short trips

If it is too short a distance, I prefer not to drive and walk or avail public transport instead. A short trip doesn’t let the engine reach its full efficiency as it doesn’t get sufficient time to warm up. This is detrimental to the engine health and consumes more fuel too. I will often give a ride to a friend to drive a few extra kilometers for this reason. It is also a good idea to club several errands into a single drive to avoid short trips.

Idling

Idling wastes a lot of fuel. It is also detrimental to the engine as there is incomplete combustion of fuel during idling, leading to carbon deposits in the engine. Modern cars don’t consume a lot of fuel to start the engine and it is said that it is more fuel efficient to shut the engine off than idling for more than 10 seconds. In fact, nowadays, high-end cars are being equipped with automatic start-stop technology to stop fuel wastage. For all practical purposes, I switch the engine off if I have to stop more than 45 seconds. For any less duration, I keep the engine idling but turn the AC off to save fuel.

The right gear

Driving in the wrong gear can put undue stress on your engine. Shifting the gears correctly in sync with the engine revs, will save fuel too. In my car, this is already taken care of as the gear changes are automatic. If you drive a manual transmission car, you should make it a habit to drive in the right gear. Shift to a higher gear a before you reach 2500 rpm on petrol engines and 2000 rpm on diesel engines.

Routine maintenance

• The ride must be kept clean. A dirty car doesn’t look nice on the roads. You can read my complete guide to car detailing.
• Adhere to the manufacturer’s recommended schedule and get the car serviced regularly.
• Get mechanical issues and niggles sorted at the service centre at the earliest.
• Change the engine oil and other fluids as per schedule.
• Don’t let your fuel tank run low. Fill it up as soon as you reach the 1/4th on the fuel gauge.
• Change the windshield wipers once a year.
• Get the pollution certificate renewed without fail every year. This is the first document the traffic police will want to see.

A person who cares for his ride is also a careful and responsible driver. A well maintained car will command a lot of respect on the roads. It will give you the feel-good factor and confidence when you drive.

 Tyres

Get the tyre pressures checked regularly at your nearest pump, when the tyres are still cold. Drive gently to your nearest fuel pump, not more than 2-3 km away. The right tyre pressure will improve vehicle handling, prolong tyre life and improve fuel economy. Under-inflated tyres can increase the fuel consumption of your car. The right tyre pressure optimizes rolling resistance and improves fuel economy. When you are getting the tyres filled, don’t leave out the spare wheel tyre.

Tyre damage on sharp impact, on negotiating a sharp pothole at speed, is quite common in India. After a drive on bad roads, look out for signs of damage which can be a bulge in the tyre or a bend in the wheel rim. Always replace the missing valve caps. Available in tyre shops at a nominal price, these valve caps prevent air leak and entry of dust.

Mechanical empathy

A car that is driven well ages well. Start developing a smooth driving manner and your car will stand the test of time. A rash driving style will only put undue stress on the mechanical bits of your car. A true enthusiast will adopt a conservative driving style in unfavourable roads and preserve the best performance of the car for some spirited driving on a good highway.

Always slow down on speed breakers; a badly designed speedbreaker can scrape the underbody. The suspension of your car takes a good beating on a bad tarmac; it will definitely last longer if you slow down on bad roads and don’t bang the car into potholes at high speeds. Your tyres will thank you in the long run if you don’t ride the footpath at an angle. If you want to prolong the life of your power steering, get the car rolling a little while turning the steering wheel, instead of standing still; this of course doesn’t apply to tight parking spots.

Background

I was looking to buy a hatchback for quite sometime, planning to drive it myself for daily commuting within the city. With my running not more than 500 km / month, diesel was ruled out. Looks of the car was important to me and I was recommended the Fiat Punto by a petrolhead friend. The Fiat Punto, especially the older Grande Punto and not the more recent Evo edition, with its classic Italian design is easily the most stylish hatchback I have seen on the roads but a rubbery gearshift and Fiat’s poor after sales service held me back. After a visit to the Bengal Hyundai showroom near Park Street, I was almost sold on the Grand i10, a good balance between features and looks. By this time, I was more inclined towards an A-segment car considering the narrow residential side road where I live. The Alto, considered an entry-level car in the Indian car scene, had never crossed my mind until its K10 line was relaunched on 3rd November 2014 and I visited Machino Techno to check it out. The New Alto K10 turned out to be more contemporary than its predecessors. It is a facelift of the older version of the car with the same peppy engine, but inside a fully revamped body and spruced up interiors. It is also a very sober design, not too quirky like the Hyundai Eon. The redesign changed my earlier perception of the Alto brand.

An automatic choice!

As I self-drive, an automatic transmission would be ideal for the congested roads of Kolkata. In fact, 97% of the cars in US are automatic. Conventional automatic transmissions are an expensive affair though. The new Alto K10, with its auto gear shift offering for less than ₹5 lakh on-road, seemed a sensible choice and I stopped looking further. The following video explains the AMT technology, which Maruti has implemented in the Alto K10.

Booking

The flagship colour tango orange looked attractive from a distance but as I approached near, it soon grew boring. White was the natural choice for me. I like the classic appeal of white and also think it is the ideal colour for a doctor’s car. My college medical-superintendent-cum-vice-principal drives a white Swift, for that matter.

I had visited the showroom determined, having done enough discussion with family. It did not take me long to decide and book the K10. The AMT is offered in the VXI variant, which cost an extra ₹50,000 on-road than the manual VXI. The car was ready in record time, in about 7 days after booking. I went on 14th Nov and made the full payment.

Car: Alto K10
Trim: VXI AMT
Colour: Superior White
Year of Manufacture: 2014
Dealership: Machino Techno, Alipore
Date of Booking: November 07, 2014
Date of Full Payment: November 14, 2014
Freebies: 5 L petrol, mudflaps, jack, floor mats, steering wheel cover, car perfume, spare headlamps

Delivery

This delay however made the new car very dusty. To add further to my dismay, the dealer did a shoddy paint job on the ORVMs and door handles. A finger mark here, another grime there, were etched into the paint! On the day of delivery, the dealer showroom behaved much like a sarkari office. Despite several reminders over phone in advance, the accessories sales rep had forgot to fit the accessories I wanted. Everything was fitted (at a slow pace) after we reached and the MGA keyless entry kit wasn’t even there in the showroom (hence I cancelled that order). A customary box of sweets was there though and even a plastic file holder to store the documents!

Price

Ex-showroom: ₹4,06,351
Registration: ₹26,290
Zero depreciation insurance: ₹14,789
Extended warranty: ₹5,164
HSRP installation: ₹503

On-road: ₹4,53,096

Dealer accessories: ₹8,610
Aftermarket accessories: ₹36,894

Total: ₹4,98,601

Exterior styling & design

Interior Styling & Design

The dashboard is the best thing about the new Alto K10. The piano black finish stereo unit looks very premium. Overall fit and finish of interior isn’t immaculate like Hyundai but the two-tone black-and-beige design is a hit. The orange illumination of the controls is a win. It looks brilliant at night. Installing custom seat covers in the right shade has upped the premium quotient of the car by a great deal. The covers look even better in the night when illuminated by the cabin light or the street light! The cabin now belongs to a sedan, it seems!

Ergonomics

Finding a comfortable driving position doesn’t take time. The front seat is comfortable, with decent back support and adequate legroom. The windscreen is fairly large with thin A-pillars and the dashboard not too high, giving very good visibility.

The gear lever falls right in the hand while the hand brake is set somewhat lower than ideal. The stereo and climate controls are easily accessible with the left hand. The hazard light switch is placed prominently at the centre, not lost in the crowd of controls. The fog lamp and headlight leveller switches are on the right, above the hood opener button which is at knee-level.

The internal adjustment of ORVM isn’t electronic and I have to reach for the passenger-side control. What I am really missing is a center armrest. Thanks to the AMT, my left hand is mostly free. A center armrest would be of great help. There being no clutch pedal, the left foot felt restless at times, until I got used to it. A dead pedal would have been a nice addition.

The front power window switches are found in the gear console, a rather unusual location. 12 V socket is conveniently placed ahead of them but the aux and USB ports are present on the front fascia of the head unit, which I find is a bad implementation. If you attach a drive or an aux cable it kills the look of an otherwise well designed dash panel. I prefer the gear console as the ideal place for these ports. I am all for minimalism!

Build Quality

This is no European hatchback built like a tank. For a sub-₹5 lakh Indian car from the Maruti stable, I don’t expect doors to shut with a deep thud! It is a light car with a kerb weight of only 755 kg. The body panels are thin and they feel hollow on tapping, a compromise by Maruti to improve fuel efficiency. The bonnet feels like it may cave in if someone sits on it, while the boot lid feels more solid than the doors. The ORVM casing is resistant to impact as it has already taken major hits twice and reverse-folded automatically each time. The power window operation is smooth. Rear window glasses go all the way down. Besides regular washes by me using a pressure washer, the Alto K10 has endured an entire Kolkata monsoon. There has been no issue of water seepage inside the cabin or the light assemblies. Like every other Indian car out there, there is no underbody protection which I think is needed on Indian roads more than anywhere else. I was glad to learn that the fuel tank is made of steel. Even the Swift has a plastic fuel tank in it!

Engine

The heart of this agile machine is the powerful K10B engine, a 1000-cc engine with 67 bhp @ 6000 rpm power and 90 Nm @ 3500 rpm torque. With an impressive 91 bhp/tonne power-to-weight ratio (equal to the Volkswagen Polo GT TSI), this car is a hoot to drive. If someone tries to cut me off on the road in a rather ungentlemanly manner, all I need is a few seconds till the other car becomes a speck in the mirror! The burst of acceleration is sure to bring a big smile to your face every time. The engine doesn’t lag even with full occupancy and the AC running, and rides on inclines with poise. The engine feels more refined now after I switched to synthetic engine oil at third free service, with a definite improvement in the engine timbre. Above 3000 rpm, the roar of the engine is music to my ears.

Brakes

The Alto K10 comes with reliable brakes with a good bite. The brake pedal has a very consistent feel. The lack of ABS hasn’t been a matter of concern in the city so far. I was doing some spirited driving on an almost empty Dhakuria bridge the other night, going downhill at 80 kmph, swerving in the last moment and braking to come to a stop by the end of the slope. The tyres squealed a bit in the end but no wheel locking. Only recently, I was driving lazily at 80 kmph at Rajarhat and a white Swift Dzire was in front of me. A civic police volunteer suddenly asked the Dzire to stop and by the time I realized the car has stopped there was not more than 50 metres gap. I braked hard and safely came to a halt with a loud squeal.

Tyres

Bridgestone S322 tubeless tyres (155/65 R13 S) are fitted on 13-inch steel rims. The 155 mm wide tyres provide adequate grip on the roads for city driving with good cornering ability. They have held their good on wet roads throughout the monsoons. The S322 has but one disadvantage – road noise at high speeds. A full size spare wheel has been provided in the boot. One of the tyres got punctured and repaired at 3620 km. I will have the tyres rotated at 10,000 km.

Suspension and handling

The Kolkata roads are not the best tarmac for driving but the soft suspension of the Alto K10 does well in absorbing the bumps, in fact better than the Hyundai Eon, giving a pliant ride in the city. The soft suspension, however, translates to a bouncy ride at a higher speed, when even the slightest undulations on the road throw the passengers into a toss. The ride is mostly jittery unless I am on a good track which is not easy to come by in our state. I have to drive extra carefully, always avoiding the irregularities on the road surface or slowing down if necessary, and friends who have taken a ride on my car have lauded the smooth ride it offers. Significant body roll is felt while negotiating the twists and turns of the Parama flyover at > 60 kmph. The light weight of the car and not so great handling don’t inspire confidence during high speed driving. It is best to adopt a safe driving style and not go adventurous during those weekend long drives.

Steering

The steering wheel feels heavier at slow speeds. Compared to the steering of the Chevrolet Beat, I find turning this one at idle is a bit of a task. The self-centering action of the steering is just how I like it, effective but not overzealous like some other cars.

Noise, vibration and harshness

As I always drive with the AC on, it is a quiet ride and the gentle whirring of the compressor is all that I hear. The engine noise is acceptable with the windows rolled up. Vibration at idle lacks refinement and is a rough edge in an otherwise smooth ride. The gear shifts are mostly quiet, can be heard as clicks if you are attentive, although there is an audible clunk from the engine bay when I change between Drive, Reverse and Neutral. Wind noise insulation is remarkably good on the highway but cabin noise insulation has room for improvement. There is significant road noise from the tyres at ~ 100 kmph even with the windows rolled up. I love the sound of the rain, but I don’t like getting startled by the rather loud banging on the poorly soundproofed roof when a heavy rain starts all of a sudden. No rattles or squeaks from the doors so far. Even the wheel wells lack cladding and I can distinctly hear the stone chips and mud hitting them.

Interior space and comfort

Thanks to good driving ergonomics, I could drive the car for 3 hours at a stretch without any discomfort. While the front seats are comfortable, taller passengers have a trying time in the rear bench as leg space becomes nonexistent for them, if two tall persons are sitting in the front. Three persons of medium built can fit in on the rear bench, but it will be not be a comfortable journey at all, making the K10 essentially a 4-seater in practice. Tall passengers also complain of headspace lacking in the rear. Once my brother in law’s head hit the roof when the chauffeur was doing 100 kmph on a bumpy road – my brother in law is 5’10”. Armrests are present on all four doors. Three grab handles are provided. Vanity mirror on the passenger side sun visor is a welcome addition. My friend can fix her hair!

HVAC

The AC unit is a chiller. It has done well to combat the Kolkata heat. On a typical summer day, it cooled the entire cabin in less than a minute. The side AC vents can be fully closed. The oft-neglected cabin air filter is missing in many cars as a cost-cutting measure by the manufacturer. I got it installed during third free service.

Electronics

USB, aux, FM, CD are all useful additions but stock Bluetooth support is missing, I had to add it on my own. Old-style retractable antenna looks dated, but I realized its utility when putting on my premium Tyvek Dupont material car cover! There is a door ajar warning (cabin lamp stays on) and a driver-seatbelt warning on the MID. The rear seat belts are retractable. A constant beep sounds if you forget to turn off the headlights or take out the key while getting down from the car. The VXI AMT came with factory-installed manual central locking. I installed keyless entry in the aftermarket for added convenience and peace of mind. The door locks are pull-push type.

Audio

The stock 4″ front speakers pack enough punch and are doing quite well to drown out the din and bustle of the city traffic. All of my friends were surprised when I told them the speakers are not aftermarket!

AMT

Driving gets really easy as the clutch operation and gear selections are automatic. The current gear selected is displayed in the MID. Gear changes are very precise and smooth. There is no lurching of the transmission i.e. the car doesn’t jerk forward at start-off. There is no gear crunching either.

There remains a concern of clutch overheating in stop-and-go traffic; there is a ‘transaxle heating’ warning light for this. However, 90% of my driving is in slow moving stop-and-go traffic and I have never faced this issue.

However, I can feel a momentary drop in acceleration when the gears are changing esp in the lower gears which the co-passenger won’t notice but can be unsettling for the driver. I overcame this problem by gently easing up on the accelerator when I foresee a gear change – the AMT TCU (transmission control unit) takes the cue and changes the gears immediately resulting in a smooth gear shift.

The gear selector also has a manual mode, which lets me upshift and downshift manually. Honestly, I have grown dependent on the automatic gear shift so much that I don’t bother using the manual any more but it gives me a higher degree of control if I want. For example, I can hold a gear till the redline and avoid an unwarranted gear change in the midst of overtaking another vehicle. The manual mode can be used to harness engine braking, when going downhill, by gradually downshifting. It can also come handy if I want to drive in first gear only, for example, when driving through a water-logged area.

Maruti advises use of the hand brake for hill start assist. Keep the handbrake pressed, gently press the gas pedal to build up some momentum, release the handbrake and accelerate further. Apparently I don’t need this because most flyovers and bridges in Kolkata are gently sloped and even if I stop and start, the car doesn’t roll back on releasing the brake pedal, thanks to its creeping function, although the handbrake manoeuvre is indispensable to prevent roll back on steep slopes, I have found, e.g. in parking lot ramps. But using the handbrake is recommended for hill start assist to extend clutch life. Trivia: Many higher end automatic cars have a special hill hold function which obviates the use of handbrake in hill start scenarios.

Capacity

The Alto K10 seats 5 occupants and comes with a 177 litre boot space. A fuel tank capacity of 35 litres gives a definite feel-good factor. The gross vehicle weight capacity is 1210 kg, which translates to a loading capacity of 455 kg, which includes passenger and luggage. If I go on a vacation with 4 friends and five of us weigh 350 kg, we can load the boot with a luggage of ~ 100 kg.

Storage

• Glove-box is accommodating. I store a variety of things in it including a compact car umbrella.
• Parcel hook below the dash panel is a win. It can hang a parcel weighing upto 2 kg.
• The AMT edition missed out on cup holders and got a downsized cubby hole. It isn’t particularly deep, I usually keep chewing gum, toll tickets and loose change there. My phone mostly sits on the dashboard mount.
• I store a variety of knick-knacks in the driver-side door pocket viz. hand sanitizer, face wipes, tissue papers, my wallet.
• The bottle holder behind handbrake console can hold a 1 L mineral water bottle.
• The rear doors have no storage space, but the pockets in the seat covers I have installed let me store magazines and newspapers in them.
• Boot can store a standard size travel suitcase and a backpack during those trips to the airport.

Accessories

From the dealer. ₹8,600/-

• Fog lamps
• Anti-rust coating of chassis
• Painting of ORVMs and door handles with body colour
• Mobile charger

One fine morning I visited Glix (Salt Lake outlet) and got the car accessorized to the hilt. The bill was ₹30,500.

• Kagu 3D Maxpider floor mats: I was quick to get rid of the dealer provided floor mats and got Kagu 3D mats installed. I got them in black. These mats are not only easy to maintain, but have greatly boosted the looks of the cabin.
• Autoform seat covers: I chose the exact shade to match the interior and Glix did a very good fitting.
• Reverse parking sensors with camera: One of the coolest gadgets in my car. The camera view comes alive in a TFT screen integrated in the IRVM and a voice warning alerts me if there is any obstacle in the rear. As an added benefit, the IRVM of the kit is also anti-glare.
• Xenos Keyless entry
• Lumar sunfilm: I went for 50% opacity. Other than cutting down the UV rays, it adds this premium touch to the windows while still being transparent.
• Philips headlight bulbs: Replaced the stock bulbs with Philips bulbs of same wattage.
• Rear power windows: The manual windows on the rear doors were an eyesore. Xenos power windows came to the rescue.

After much search, I got the following accessories from online merchants:

• GOgroove Smart mini AUX Bluetooth ₹2390: Device has a very low footprint with absolutely no wires, I simply have to plug it into the aux port. The calls, voice-guided navigation and music – everything play through the car audio system. Calls are very clear and the other end can hear me fine without any feedback. It lets me drive hands-free without losing focus on the road.
• iOttie Easy Flex 2 dashboard mount ₹1536: This is a great product which actually stays rooted to the dashboard – solid like a rock! The mount has a firm grip on the phone can be rotated in multiple angles.
• Polco Dupont Tyvek Car Body Cover ₹2468: This water-resistant, UV-resistant, breathable car cover is made of Dupont Tyvek material.

City driving:

The Alto K10 has performed remarkably well in the monsoons this year. The brakes and tyres held their ground on the wet roads, the fog lights improved visibility and the stock wipers did a commendable job. I make it a point not to drive through streets inundated with water. But once I had to drive through at least 6 inches deep water. I drove very slow and luckily there was no mishap.

Highway Driving

Most of my highway driving has been limited to the city outskirts. I have covered the Belghoria Expressway – via Biswa Banga Sarani – a number of times. It is an absolutely smooth and thoroughly enjoyable ride (~70-80 kmph) thanks to the mostly good tarmac, but one has to keep an eye for the occasional pothole which can be difficult to spot in the night. I have driven on the Park Circus – Parama Island flyover many times. The fantastic track allows a smooth drive and I usually maintain a speed of 80-90 kmph, slowing down at the turns, and manage to touch 100 kmph at least twice on this 4+ km track. During my rare drives on the Kona Expressway, the K10 engine held good while I comfortably overtook the long trucks.

The Philips bulbs have definitely increased the reach of my headlight on the highway. With my aftermarket additions, I get absolutely no glare on the IRVM – no more getting blinded by the high beams of trucks following me.

Minor Accidents

• My father is not very patient on the steering wheel and he got this really long creased dent on both the left doors from the steel bumper guard of a taxi once. Twice he got the rear bumper stuck while overtaking, once in the steel bumper guard of a taxi, and another time in the wheel cap of a cycle van rickshaw. Each time the bumper broke and had to be replaced.
• During the Pujo, I had to drive under a bamboo and forgot about the radio antenna which was open. The antenna got bent and would not go into its socket anymore. I replaced the antenna assembly during third service.

After Sales Service

The new car stayed in the garage unused for about two weeks as there was an unusual delay in getting the registration number from the RTO end. One fine morning when we were supposed to visit Kasba RTO to get the HSRP fixed, the car wouldn’t start. The AMT should not be pushed to start the engine! Had to call Maruti roadside assistance. After about an hour a mobile van reached my place and jumped the battery to start the car. The whole experience was top notch. Maruti customer care kept in touch every 15 minutes or so till the service person arrived and later took a feedback. I wasn’t charged.

The dealer sent a mobile van for the first free service @ 98 km. The inside was cleaned, the hinges greased and fluids topped up. I didn’t allow them to clean the car with their apparently unclean rag! I was provided a free wash coupon valid for six months. The charge incurred for onsite service was a nominal ₹112.

I was also invited to a free service camp by the dealer earlier this year @ 1297 km when some routine maintenance was done.

During the second free service @ 3624 km the car went for some repair and the bill was ₹25,000 for the following jobs:

• Rear bumper replacement
• Front bumper dent repair
• Repair of a long creased dent on the left doors
• Scratch repair on left side wheel arch
• Scratch repair on right side rear door
• Paint work for above repairs
• Both ORVMs re-painted
• Tyre puncture repair

Body repair work @ 3849 km, done at Auto Hitech workshop, cost ₹7,000. The work was far from perfect as the rear bumper wasn’t fitted well and rattled on a slight tap. I was asked over phone to revisit the workshop and get the issue sorted, but I couldn’t find time for a follow up visit. Break up of repair work done was as follows:

• Rear bumper replacement
• Scratch repair on right wheel arch
• Paint work for above repairs

Third free service done @ 6050 km. Routine inspection and maintenance jobs were done. I requested the service advisor to specifically service the air-conditioner well and get the suspension nuts tightened. I got the cabin air filter installed as well, which is not a standard factory fitment in the Alto K10. I opted for synthetic engine oil and insisted on an engine flush before changing the oil from mineral to synthetic. On my request, the SA allowed me to see the engine flush and oil change. I also witnessed the car wash and was mostly pleased with the way every part including the underbody was pressure washed. The engine bay got a wash too and the spare wheel was taken out for a wash as well. 2-3 men dried the car quickly with clean towels, red ones for the paint and blue towels for the windows. The broken antenna was replaced too. The dealer actually took 2 weeks to procure the antenna assembly after I placed an order for it over phone. I also met the body repair advisor and asked him to take a look at the rear bumper which sometimes rattled. He diagnosed poor fit as the cause and asked his guys to put in the missing screws in places. The license plate was not sitting flush on the rear bumper. Double sided tapes were pasted in between for a better seal. Post antenna installation, some wires hanging in the footwell came in the way of my right foot while driving, much to my horror, and I had to take the car to the workshop next week to get it fixed. The third service bill was ₹5798.

• Engine flush ₹802
• Mobil1 0w40 synthetic oil (2.9 litre) ₹3726
• Oil filter ₹90
• Cabin air filter ₹350
• Antenna assembly ₹715
• Antenna installation labour charge ₹115

I usually go to the Dargah road workshop of Machino Techno and I must say I am very impressed by their behaviour and professionalism. Workmanship is also at par with their courteous behavior, although the paint job they did after repair work had one or two areas of imperfection. Auto Hitech workshop on C. N. Roy Road is nearer to me, but I like the entrance and the whole layout of the Machino Techno workshop a lot better.

Insurance

I got the insurance from Bajaj Allianz, arranged by Maruti dealer. Last year, I claimed insurance for a repair work once and out of the ₹25,000 I was billed for, the company covered ₹11,000. I got the insurance renewed by the same company this year, the annual premium came to be ₹10,800, about ₹4,000 less than first year premium. The formalities were done over phone and a representative handed me the documents at my place.

Accessories
Reverse parking sensors with camera: One of the coolest gadgets in my car, it kicks off as soon as the gear is changed to reverse. The camera view comes alive in a TFT screen integrated in the IRVM which also shows the distance in feet from the nearest obstacle in real time. A speaker installed in the rear lets out a voice warning alerts me if there is any obstacle in the rear. Although I was reluctant to get a reverse parking camera, opting for it on my father’s insistence, I must say it is a good thing to have while parking in a busy area. A product from the Indian brand P8, it has worked reliably without any hiccups so far. Incidentally, the IRVM of the kit is actually anti-glare which has been a huge benefit as I am not blinded by the high beams from cars esp. trucks following me.

This morning a friend forwarded me a sentimental article about Kolkata, which was a poetic exaggeration. The article however made no mention of taxis and I pondered. Talking of Kolkata, the taxi drivers deserve a mention. Just like the Howrah bridge, the yellow cabs have been synonymous with the city!

I want to comment on the driving skills of the cab drivers, they are really skilled drivers. When is the last time you have read in the newspaper about a taxi getting into a road accident? (Think of buses, autos!). The ambassador is no small car, yet they manoeuvre it deftly in the serpentine lanes of the city and its suburbs. Earlier the profession was dominated by Sardarjis, now it is Biharis mostly. All of them drive like gentlemen on the road. A cab will ply rather slowly if it is looking for a passenger. Honk once and they will let you overtake. Once it gets a passenger, they will speed away. They won’t overtake you unless you are driving slow. In a congested city like kolkata, driving is all about good dynamics between fellow drivers and the cab drivers display this spirit. On the road, they are humble, understanding and accommodating – all essential traits of a good driver.

The autos are a different story. These unsafe vehicles create havoc by driving recklessly, putting everyone at risk. Unlike designated auto stands, there are no defined spots for cabs to wait. Police often harass them for stopping by – the practice started since Mamata came to power and has stopped recently eyeing next year elections.

If the autos are a menace, the unruly biker is no less of a villain – they are often overtaking others from the left and right without the slightest of warning! Of late, I see bikes violating even the red light at crossings. The other day, while I was waiting at a signal, a taxi was coming from the opposite side and was about to cross me, when a bike tried to sneak in front of the taxi by squeezing between it and my car. The taxi gave him no space and drove ahead. This infuriated the biker and his friend, they started hurling abuses at the driver. The taxi driver wasn’t shy of a confrontation and challenged them – gaali kisko diya? The biker duo got down, tried to drag him out and a fistfight broke out between the sides. I honked twice hoping they would disengage. Soon others came and separated them. I was impressed by the resilience of the driver, and not to mention, disgusted by the audacity of the bikers who were wearing branded clothes and shoes.

The cab drivers are infamous for their refusal, but then that is part of a bigger socio-economic issue affecting Bengal in general, which is beyond the current talking point. I have often picked up a chat with the driver while taking a ride in a taxi. I knew a driver from Exide area who would bring me home at 3 am in the night from the hospital if I called. I had to pay him 50 rupees extra on the meter. One night my phone was out of charge. I walked till Exide and enquired for this man. The other drivers present recognized his name and rang him. They asked me to wait for 10 minutes and let me sit inside one of their taxis as it was a winter night – they didn’t know I was a doctor.

They are hard-working souls braving many odds throughout the day – maintenance costs, eating outside food daily, an insanely hot ambassador engine that makes the front seat unbearable in summer, police excesses, lack of enough public toilets. I can recall a poor soul who had almost refused me saying he had to attend the nature’s call, but then hesitantly asked me to get aboard. On the way the poor chap stopped at two Sulabh toilets and found all the latrines occupied. By the third Sulabh we came across on the way, he was in a pretty bad state. Luckily he could find a spot in the third one.

Quite often, they are living an impoverished life. Once in the hospital, I was shocked by the eye sight of a driver and asked him how he could drive at all. He replied – sir raat er belay ektu osubidha hoy! I was like “ektu?!” and advised him to get his cataract operated at the earliest.

One morning, I took a cab to the hospital and the frail elderly driver started chatting. On hearing I am a doctor he narrated how his granddaughter recently got discharged after suffering from a deadly attack of dengue. Buying the medicines and fruits have cost him several hundred rupees. His license had been confiscated by the police and he couldn’t drive for days – he needed 1000 to get his license back from the police station. That day he took a risk and took the car out without his license, hoping he would earn just enough by the end of the day to pay for the license. He asked for some money. On principle, I never give alms to people. This time, I went out of my way, and paid him his fare and then 200 rupees extra.

A water hose, if not a car washer, is a must for car detailing as it is impossible to clean areas like the front grille and tyres with hands alone. A car washer only makes the job easier. As my garage doesn’t have an electric point, I decided to buy a rechargeable portable car washer from an online store called Resqtech.

Brand

An Indian company called Resqtech is marketing portable car wash products manufactured by CBS, which I gather is a Chinese company. There are Chinese characters on the parts.

Price

At ₹7195 (shipping and taxes included), it seems a bit too expensive.

Shipping

I bought the product from the seller’s website resqtech.in. They sent it in a carboard box without a shred of a thermocol! I received the bucket in a broken condition – it came with a large crack on a side. Luckily, it was replaced quickly when I contacted.

Build quality

The build quality is above average. The plastic body of the bucket looks durable enough, but certainly don’t get carried away by the advert video and try standing on it! The hose pipe is also a sturdy one, one that won’t coil up or kink easily. The other attachments – esp. the pistol spray – look rather solid.

Operation

• Water pressure: The pressure is no match to mainstream pressure washers from reputed brands. For regular washing of a city car, the pressure is just adequate, but falls short when I am washing the mud sitting deep on the lower panels of the car.
• Noise: The noise of the pump is quite low. Mainstream car washers, on the other hand, tend to be noisier.
• “Auto on” function: On turning the unit on, the pump is ready for action but not operational yet. It automatically becomes operational every time I press the trigger and stops when I release it. [Tip: don’t keep the unit turned on when not using for a prolonged time.]

Components

• Bucket: The yellow plastic bucket holds 28 litres of water, with volume markings in L on the inside. It comes with a black lid and a handle. The lid isn’t water-tight, which means the full bucket can’t be moved around without spilling water.
• Hose: The hose is long enough to complete a full circle around my Alto K10. It has to be fitted to the outlet of the bucket with force until you hear a click. Then there is a washer to be tightened. The other end of the hose connects the attachment you want to use for washing e.g spray gun.
• Spray gun: The power of the water jet can be varied with pressure on the trigger. A gentle press will result in a fine mist spray. On pressing the trigger fully, I get a powerful jet for washing the tyres.
• Water release trigger: One end to be fitted to the hose. The other end connects the white brush assembly or the gardening nozzle.
• White brush with black assembly: This is a brush with soft bristles. Used for brushing the car e.g. when rinsing off shampoo from the car.
• White cleaning brush: This is an extra white brush provided. You can take the old one out from the black assembly and replace with this one.
• Gardening nozzle: You will find this useful if you have a penchant for gardening.
• Micro fiber cloth: An extra microfiber cloth is always welcome!
• Washer (green): A spare washer. Goes inside the water release trigger.
• Coin: It is supposed to be helpful if the water doesn’t come out evenly from the white brush assembly.
• AC charger: It plugs to an AC socket and charges the battery fully in 3-4 hours. The red indicator light on the charger turns green once the battery has been fully charged.
• 12 V DC charger: It powers the unit by tapping into the car battery. May come handy if you have forgotten to charge your unit beforehand.

Maintenance

All the components like the spray gun or the water release trigger can be disassembled. I wipe them and lay them open under the fan on a newspaper, and reassemble them once completely dried. This goes a long way in preventing corrosion and sedimentation inside the components. In case any parts break, most of them are available online for purchase.

Servicing

After sales service is a grey area. While a customer support helpline number is prominently displayed on the website, there is no mention of any service centre. In all probability, a customer will be asked to speed post the unit to Pune in case of a malfunction.

Conclusion

Somewhat overpriced, but does the job. For the same price you can get more powerful mainstream car washers from reputed brands. Get this only if getting a running water or electric supply in your garage isn’t feasible. Bad packaging during shipping is a downer. Other than the obvious advantages like portability and low noise, I think its two best features are the variable power of water jet and “auto on” function.

The said video seems to be an internet phenomenon. Although I think it is a dangerous trend for a society where the thought leaders are actors and singers, instead of authors and philosophers, I watched the video. Apparently is a sweet message that celebrates womanhood – a woman should make her own choices; she is not bound to any man, it is her life.

But it sounds arrogant and discriminatory, borderlining on ridiculous. While every relationship should be based on mutual love and respect, in the video the actor tries to establish a right of “choice” in a relationship in a holier than thou fashion. It’s like: I am Deepika Paadukone… I have chosen you, be grateful (else I will kick you in the arse).

Besides, I have an issue with the target audience of this message. Surely the truly empowered women (and men) don’t need to lectured like this. And those who aren’t actually empowered might get confused by a pseudo intellectual campaign like this.

I think women empowerment starts from gender equality. The differences between men and women add variety and texture to life, making life more interesting and fun. But they must have equal rights, equal opportunities and equal status in the society. It is really unfortunate that in our third world country, the situation is far from how I would like it to be. Only in the northern European countries like Norway, Sweden, women are truly empowered. Interestingly, these countries have very high HDI.

In our stupid society, for women to be really in a position where they are admired for their work just as men would be, there should be more women in the important positions. I wish to see more female administrators, doctors, scientists, authors, industrialists, and so on. I am still waiting for the day when a female police officer will be patrolling my city to protect us from crimes in the night and female cab drivers taking us from place to place will be a common sight.

Background

Car detailing is hard work and time-consuming, yet after buying my new car, I decided to take matters in my own hands rather than trusting the workshop, who will actually use inferior detailing products, and turned this into an ongoing DIY project.

Objectives

We spend a considerable time of the day in the car. We want our cars shining both inside and out, and smelling good. A thorough detailing job ensures the car shines all the way, from the hood to the tailgate.

Too much detailing can be an overkill though. Overenthusiastic cleaning can cause swirl marks, which are minute scratches on the paint not visible to the naked eye that accumulate over time and criss-cross with each other. Whenever you are agitating the dirt with some washing medium, you are adding inadvertent but inevitable swirl marks on the paint. While it is true that a car left to gather dust in a humid climate will invite moisture leading to rusting, excessive washing without proper drying can do the same damage! So one has to be careful.

There is no point in getting an expensive Teflon (poly tetra fluoro ethylene) coating that doesn’t last more than a few months in the hot Indian climate. Worse still, many Indian dealers will do a normal polish and wax job and pass it off as Teflon! Getting the right tools for the job is important. DIY detailing products should be easy to apply, clearcoat-safe and environment-friendly.

One should realize that cars are meant to be used outdoors, in the rain, sun and storm. It is okay if they get wet or dirty. A sound detailing plan should be based more on practicality than obsession. The right balance of time and benefit is the key to a realistic detailing routine. The ultimate goal is to retain the showroom finish over the years with minimum effort.

It is prudent to follow a regular detailing routine. I spread my detailing work over weeks and this makes the task easier. I devote each session into one particular area of detailing. If I am washing the car this Sunday, then post-wash I may do a compound-polish-wax treatment of the bonnet and stop there. The week next, I will concentrate on the roof mostly. If I have dressed the tyres this week, may be I will plan a thorough detailing of the interior in the next, and so on.

Products Used

Professional-grade detailing products are hard to come by in Kolkata. I had to procure them from online merchants. While good detailing products come at a price, they last long enough. My detailing kit contains the following:

• Optimum No Rinse: This biodegradable product can be used as a quick detailer, a claying lubricant and a rinseless wash. It is devoid of harmful chemicals and environment-friendly.
• Sonax Gloss Concentrate: Phosphate free and pH neutral car shampoo, safe for clearcoat layer of car paint.
• Meguiar’s microfiber wash mitt glove: Using this soft plush mitt glove is an absolute delight.
• Optimum Opti-Eraser: While a clay bar has to be discarded if it falls on ground, this synthetic clay foam is washable and re-usable.
• Meguiars Ultimate Compound
• Meguiars Ultimate Polish
• Colinite 845: The magic of carnauba wax, made in US.
• 303 Aerospace Protectant: Dashboard protectant of my choice.
• Optimum Leather Protectant: Care for the leatherette seat covers in my car.
• Astonish Black Shine Restorer: Biodegradable tyre polish
• Tar X: Tar spot remover made of natural ingredients posing no threat to the environment and safe for the clearcoat.
• Iron X: pH balanced, acid-free de-ironing agent that is clearcoat safe and pulls out ferrous contaminants from the car paint.
• Microfiber towels
  • Optimum glass towel: lint-free towel for effective glass cleaning
  • Cobra Bright Green Towel: dual-sided 75/25 blend 380 gsm with a thick pile on one side for buffing after wax and quick detailing, and short pile on the other for cleaning tough residues like tar
  • Cobra Guzzler Towel: waffle weave drying towel
  • 3 all purpose 350 gsm towels
  • Microfiber scrubber pad: for washing the mud on the lower panels
• Dusters
  • Spic and Span 360 microfiber duster: For dusting the interior
  • California Duster
• Pads
  • Wax applicator pad
  • Cutting pad for compound
  • Polishing pad
• Fender brush
• A couple of sprayer bottles
• 2 Buckets
• Sitting stool: Because detailing the lower panels, bumpers and tyres can be quite back-breaking!
• Surgical gloves: to protect my hands
• Coido 6132 car vacuum cleaner: I got this small wonder on a discount for ₹649 from Snapdeal. It has adequate suction to clean the carpet without any hassle.
• Resqtech electric car washer: This is the most important tool in my detailing arsenal that makes car washing an absolute joy.
• Polco car cover: Tyvek material car cover that is breathable, UV resistant, water-resistant.

Washing

With regular quick detailing (explained later), I don’t need to wash the car often. Mostly I am washing the car once a fortnight. On a typical Sunday morning, I gather my detailing tools and get down to business.

• Quick wash

I simply blast off my pressure washer on the car. On a car that has been waxed before, this is all it takes to get rid of the dirt. No shampoo is necessary. It takes 5-10 minutes to wash the car, a great stress-buster and a my favourite Sunday morning chore. This is also the only method of cleaning the car which doesn’t cause swirl marks on the paint.

• Normal Wash

It is the wash proper where the whole car is cleaned up with a car shampoo, using the two-bucket method. To start with, I rinse the whole body with a gentle water spray to get the loose dirt off.  Then I apply shampoo to the whole car using the microfiber wash mitt, working from the roof and windows down, hood to trunk and sides. There are two buckets, one with shampoo and another with just water. The second bucket is for washing the mitt after doing one section of the car so that dirt isn’t transferred to the next section. For the very dirty panels at the bottom where you wouldn’t dare to put your mitt, I have a separate microfiber scrubber pad. An ordinary rag does the job on the tyres. Under no circumstances, I allow the shampoo to dry up and keep rinsing the suds off, after shampooing each panel, with a fine water spray.

• Rinseless Wash

Ever since I bought my car washer, I have stopped doing a rinseless wash but it is a good option if you are low on water supply. Follow the same two-bucket method with one bucket full of your rinseless wash solution (I use Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: 2 cap full in 4 litres of water) and another with just water, and clean the whole car, panel by panel, with your wash mitt. The difference is, unlike shampoo, you don’t have to rinse the suds off. After washing each panel, simply dry it with a towel. Huge savings of water!

Drying

All detailing business should be done in the shade and not under direct sun. This prevents the car drying up all too soon. If allowed to air dry, unsightly water spots will develop and the paint will appear dull. If you are doing a wash-to-wax regimen, keep the car wet at all times, by hosing water on it in between the steps.

Once you are done washing the car, it should be dried up with a good quality towel. I use a waffle weave microfiber towel for drying. Wiping the paint with a towel even with little to no pressure can create swirl marks if something gets caught under the towel. Instead of wiping, I hold the towel on the paint and blot dry it.

During washing water seeps into the doorjambs which are painted areas hidden by the door i.e. door edges, A-pillar and B-pillar jamb areas. I give these hidden areas a thorough wipe and leave the doors open for an hour. Without proper drying, these spots are prone to rusting in the highly humid climate of Kolkata. One particular area of concern is the bottom sill of the door which must be given a good wiping.

Decontamination / Paint preparation

Decontamination is the process of prepping the paint surface before waxing. There are many contaminants, e.g. road tar, ferrous compounds, brake dust, deeply etched into the paint which a car shampoo can’t remove. Using corrosive agents, on the other hand, will eat into the clearcoat. It is important to use products which are safe for the clearcoat yet strong enough to pull the contaminants out.

• I spray Iron X to the whole car while it is still wet. As it removes the ferrous metallic contaminants bonded to the paint surface, the product changes its colour to pink. After letting the product dwell for five minutes, I rinse it off.
• I dab a little bit of Tar X on a cotton cloth and wipe the tar spots, letting the product sit for 3 – 10 minutes before rinsing it off.
• Whatever contaminant remains after this, I strip them off by claying. Easier said than done though, because claying an entire car takes a lot of patience and toil. Luckily there is not much contaminants left after de-ironing. I mostly concentrate my claying efforts on the bonnet and the lower panels and then go to other panels if I feel like. Further, clay is to be used as less as possible, may be once in 2 years. Because once you have a good wax layer. It will be more effective in keeping paint clean without much particulate matter sticking to paint layer, unless your car is parked near railway station, shipyard, industrial complex, major highway or street.
• I rinse off thoroughly, this time using the cleaning brush attachment of my car washer, ensuring no trace of Iron X, Tar X or claying lube is left on the car, and towel dry the car one last time.

Once the paint has been decontaminated, microscopic irregularities on the paint created by the contaminants are laid bare. So decontamination must be followed up with a wax or sealant treatment in the same detailing session.

Paint protection

Once the paint has been washed and decontaminated, it is time to protect it. I am old school when it comes to paint protection and swear by pure carnauba wax. After applying wax to a panel with a wax applicator pad, I allow it to dry for 15 minutes. Once the wax dries up into a fine haze I buff it with the softer side of the Cobra Bright Green Towel. Don’t apply too much force when you are buffing the wax. I remove any stray wax residue from the glasses and trims with an all purpose microfiber towel.

Waxing protects the paint and adds shine to it. It is a good physical exercise and the most rewarding chore in the whole detailing regimen! I do not rest before putting two coats of Colinite 845, my favourite carnauba wax. I then take a moment to stand back and admire the brilliant wet shine on my car! I have planned a wax routine three times a year.

Trim Protection

After washing and drying, I detail the exterior trim surfaces on the ORVMs, A and B pillars, window sills, antenna base and front grille with 303 Aerospace Protectant. On the mudflaps I use Astonish Black Shine Restorer, a cheaper product.

Doorjamb Detailing

The doorjambs, which are often neglected and left dirty, are major rust-prone areas in the car. A layer of wax followed by an occasional wipe can save a lot of pain in the long run in the humid Kolkata weather. Once in a while, I clean the doorjambs with ONR rinseless wash solution and a microfiber towel, followed by wiping with a dry towel. These hidden areas are real dirt magnets and it takes very long to clean them all, but once detailed thoroughly, the next cleaning becomes a lot easier. As these are not exposed areas a coat of wax can last a very long time.

Tyre Dressing

After rinsing off the shampoo, I dress the tyres with Astonish Black Shine Restorer to enhance the blackness, for that natural black look. The product I use doesn’t sling i.e. it doesn’t fly off and stick to the car’s body during ride.

Maintenance

A waxed car is much easier to maintain. It isn’t necessary to keep washing your car all the time.

• Dusting

A car duster comes handy in getting rid of very light dust, typically the dust you see after the car is back from a short drive or has been parked for a day in the open. The duster is not meant for anything more than a day’s dust, and certainly not caked grime. Never use the duster on a wet car. The duster should be used very gently, so that it barely touches the paint, otherwise it will cause inevitable swirl marks in the long run because you are dragging a duster across the dry paint finish.

The duster of my choice is the California Duster. Trusted by detailers around the world, this duster comes with wax-treated bristles which lift the dust instead of dragging it. I have used the Indian version of this product but wasn’t satisfied with the results. Finally I got the California Duster from Amazon US for $10.49 (the wooden handle edition costs more) via a friend staying in the States; you may also buy the duster online. The following video explains the proper technique of using a duster.

• Quick Detailing

Quick detailing can keep your car clean and shiny between your weekly car washes. Quick detailing is the perfect on-the-go method to treat dirty spots on the car, especially hard to remove residues like bird droppings and plant sap. I prepare and stock the quick detailing solution in a handy spray bottle which is always kept in the car. The ratio of my liking is 2 cap fulls Optimum No Rinse in 500 ml of purified water, although the recommended dose is double this. Shake the bottle for 30 seconds, spray the QD solution on a dirty spot and gently rub the spot with towel. Turn over to a fresh side of the towel and buff dry that area. When the car isn’t too dirty for a wash but has more dust than than a car duster can handle, you can wipe down the entire car with quick detailer and get guaranteed shine in a few minutes. The ease of ‘spray and wipe’ has made quick detailer wipe downs a popular thing in car shows.

Windshield Cleaning

A spotless windscreen and mirrors is a must for a safe ride. I clean the windscreen, side and rear windows, both inside and out, and all the mirrors before starting my ride with Optimum Glass Towel and purified water.

Car Cover

In the humid Kolkata weather, a cover is indispensable if you don’t have a closed garage. A car left in the open to gather dust invites moisture leading to rust formation in the long run. By keeping the forces of nature at bay, a cover goes a long way in maintaining the car in showroom condition.

My garage is open on the sides. The amount of dust collecting daily on the car was driving me crazy. I soon realized the importance of a car cover. I got one from Polco, made of Tyvek – a breathable, ultraviolet resistant, water resistant material.

There is a certain technique to follow when putting the cover on the car or taking it off to prevent scratching the paint surface: When removing the cover, I dust it first and then fold it from the two sides. Then I roll it from the front to the back, never rubbing the cover against the paint. I clean the car with a duster every time before covering it, and put the cover by unfolding and unrolling it in the reverse order.

Interior Detailing

I regularly dust the dashboard and seats with a microfibre duster. Once in a month, I clean the interior trim and the seats with a damp microfiber towel. I apply Optimum Leather Protectant Plus on my faux leather seat covers. It leaves a satin finish, and prevents cracking and marring, while also repelling dust. On the interior trim, I apply a dashboard polish called 303 Aerospace Protectant. This water-based protectant gives a deep shine to the car interior – the dashboard looks forever new! It also repels dust, blocks UV rays, prevents fading and, more importantly, minimizes evaporation of chemicals from car interior plastic.

I have 3D floor mats in my car which do a good job of containing the dust, leaving the carpet mostly clean. These are very easy to maintain. Simply taking them out and banging against the wall gets the dust out. Once in a month, I wash the mats with brush and detergent under tap water and vacuum the carpet.

A thoroughly detailed car must smell good too. I am against cluttering the dashboard with fancy perfumes! Neither do I like those fitted to AC vents, hanging like an unsightly appendage! For more than a year, I have used a gel-based perfume called My Shaldan which I placed on the carpet below the passenger seat using 3M double sided tape, but now I am thinking of switching over to some 100% organic product.

To prevent moisture build up and mildew formation, I keep a handful of silica gel desiccant packets in various places like the glove compartment, door pockets, boot.

I always prefer a desktop as my primary computer, simply because of the ergonomics of a bigger screen, keyboard and mouse. A desktop is not only very easy to set up, it offers a great degree of customization as well, while being easy to maintain in the long run.

Building a new system has been on the cards for quite sometime, as the older one was having a lot of hiccups in recent months. This time, I bought the parts separately and assembled them myself.

The setup

I kept the configuration realistic, in tune with my computing needs which are rather basic, limited to surfing websites, looking up information, buying online, working with documents, listening to music, editing an image once in a while and so on.

It is a 4th generation Intel® Core™ i3-4130 Processor (3M Cache, 3.40 GHz) based system with a 4 GB Corsair Vengeance® DDR3 RAM, a 240 GB Sandisk Extreme Pro solid state drive, a 1 TB Western Digital Blue (7200 RPM speed, 64 MB cache) hard disk drive. All of this sitting on a Asus B85M-G motherboard, fed by a 450 W Corsair VS Series™ power supply and housed inside a Cooler Master N200 cabinet. Most of the parts were bought online, while I got the motherboard from a shop on Ganesh Chandra Avenue. By the time I got down to write this, I don’t recall the exact price. I think all this came for about ₹30,000.

I have retained my old 20″ LG E2042TC LED monitor, Logitech keyboard & mouse, Creative 2.1 speakers.

The system that is really fast

I want my computer to be very fast. I need fast boot times and the programs must load in a jiffy. This is where the solid state drive comes in. (SSD vs HDD). I have addded a 120 GB SanDisk Extreme II 240 GB Sandisk Extreme Pro SSD as the primary drive for Windows and other programs, and another 1 TB secondary drive for storing movies, photos and music – the so called dual-drive system. I settled for 4 GB RAM as it is enough for my computing needs. Photoshop works without hiccups! So I am not planning to upgrade to 8 GB anytime soon.

The system that will last ten years

I have chosen only quality components, all of which will go a long way in making my system stand the tests of time, because I need a system that will have enough power to smoothly run heavy applications like Photoshop but will be absolutely maintenance-free: like set and forget.

• The motherboard is the most important component of the system. Asus is known for using good quality components in their motherboards. For instance, the B85M-G uses Taiwan AP-CON solid capacitors which, rated at a 5,000-hour lifetime and a maximum operating temperature of 105°C, are said to have 2.5x longer life span than standard solid capacitors. The B85M-G also comes with various protection features like protection against over-current and short-circuit damage to any USB devices, anti-surge protection. A nice review of the board I got can be found here: The Tech Revolutionist.
• I have spent more on the PSU and cabinet. First part of this PC World article explains why it is important to get a good PSU:
  

  Higher-quality power supplies almost always use bigger and better capacitors, chokes, and other internal components, and they come outfitted with larger heatsinks for superior heat dissipation—all of which translates into more weight. Larger cooling fans, which typically move more air while making less noise than smaller fans, are another plus.

  The Corsair VS450 not only feels heavier to hold, but its sophisticated black powder coated enclosure and the black-sleeved cables mean the threadbare interior of a PC cabinet is a thing of the past. It is 80 Plus certified, which translates to efficient energy use and less electricity bills. It offers protection from over-voltage, under-voltage, over-current, and short circuit.

• The Cooler Master N200 cabinet I chose comes with adequate ventilation, dust filters and extra fans in the rear and the front, it is an efficient cooling system for my setup. It also has provisions for adding cooling radiators, indicated only in heavy graphics intensive gaming. On a side note, it is one of the few sober designs from Cooler Master, in a crowd of flashy designs!

Future plans

I very much want to buy the Microsoft Natural keyboard. It comes at a price, but is probably the most ergonomic keyboard out there.

2016 December update: The two year old desktop is going strong. I am pleased to see that all the components, barring the processor, are still relevant and their prices remain more or less the same! The solid state drive crashed in August 2016. It came with a five year warranty and I got a free replacement from Sandisk, only with a better and larger drive this time.

1. Dopamine which is a neurotransmitter is necessary for drive or motivation. Low levels of dopamine will mean less interest in life.
2. It leads us to goal directed activities. Like going to gym is a goal. Making an effort to hit the gym and exercising will mean a dopamine high.
3. Habit forming and dopamine is closely related as dopamine is related to reward system. A habit means rewiring of brains. This also means addiction (elder brother of habit) has a bad effect on brain circuitry – here, there will be no further increase in dopamine. E.g., porn addiction. In case of addiction, the reward system of brain goes into overdrive and messes up dopamine production.
4. How to increase dopamine? Make small goals and achieve them. Keep this a regular thing. A goal can be a morning without Facebook. An evening of gym. A night of reading. Meditation. Intermittent fasting.

The Moto G phone I got last month is really a stellar piece of hardware. Stunning 326ppi 4.5″ display, corning gorilla glass 3, handy form factor and a very snappy lag-free interface are the things that set this device apart. Inside the hood, there is 1 GB of RAM, 1.2 GHz quad core processor – all guarded by a water-repellent coating. With overnight charging, the phone battery lasts me a day. Moto G has done to smartphones what gmail had done to email a decade ago. A price war has set off between the phone companies. No wonder many say that the best feature of Moto G is its price!

After using Thesis for fouryears as my WordPress framework of choice, it is time to say goodbye. A framework theme is a blank theme on which you can build your own theme, with your own custom CSS and PHP. A framework saves a lot of time by minimizing many repetitive tasks.

Out of the many framework themes for WordPress, Thesis was the best as it brought many out-of-the-box features with it, in-built SEO goodness for instance. Thesis saved a lot of my time – instead of going through lines of code, simple things could be accomplished by a single click from the Thesis admin interface. Adding my own code to Thesis custom functions file meant my functions stayed intact despite Thesis upgrades. I had bought the developer license in 2010 for $164.

A year ago, Chris Pearson released Thesis 2.0. I devoted several evenings trying to get the hang of it but in vain. The interface had undergone a radical change, it became oversimplified. Too much simplification made it complicated, now it took me several clicks to do something for which a single line of code in the custom functions file would suffice! In the last two days, I took further time out of my schedule to get acquainted with the new Thesis, and concluded it is an overkill and a waste of time.

The following comment on a blog echoes my thoughts:

I have a good knowledge of HTML and CSS, nevertheless I don’t get Thesis 2.

I used the Thesis 1.8 theme because it made life easy. That’s what themes are for.

If I want to get down and dirty with scripting and spend DAYS learning to use a commercial theme why should I bother? I can take a basic free WordPress theme, create a child theme and tweak it to my heart’s content whilst keeping my hard-earned dollars in my pocket.

Now there are many premium framework themes in the market and they are all over-hyped. You do need a base to build on, and not waste your time on writing repetitive lines of PHP. I recommend using a starter theme like Underscores and build your own theme from there.